A Beginner's Guide to Mechanical Watches

A mechanical watch keeps time with springs and gears rather than a battery and an electronic circuit. For many people, that is precisely its appeal.

How it works

At its simplest, a mechanical movement has five parts working together:

• The mainspring is a coiled spring that stores energy when the watch is wound.
• The gear train carries that energy from the mainspring towards the regulating parts, and drives the hands.
• The escapement releases the energy in small, regular steps. It is responsible for the familiar ticking.
• The balance wheel and its hairspring oscillate back and forth at a steady rate, regulating the escapement.
• The dial train and hands translate the movement's steady motion into hours, minutes and seconds.

Manual and automatic

A manual-winding watch is wound by turning the crown. An automatic (self-winding) watch contains a rotor — a weighted segment that turns as the wrist moves — which winds the mainspring. Many automatics can also be wound by hand.

The power reserve is how long a fully wound watch runs before stopping. Common figures range from around a day and a half to several days, depending on the movement.

Mechanical and quartz

A quartz watch uses a battery and a quartz crystal that vibrates at a precise frequency. Quartz watches are generally more accurate and need little attention. Mechanical watches are valued for their craftsmanship, their sweeping seconds hands and the absence of a battery — and they reward a little care.

Living with a mechanical watch

• Expect some variation in daily accuracy; manufacturers publish tolerances for their movements.
• Keep it away from strong magnets, which can affect the hairspring.
• Avoid hard knocks.
• Have it serviced at the intervals the manufacturer recommends.

Changing the strap is one of the simplest, safest ways to refresh a mechanical watch. Use the correct tool, work over a soft surface, and if the watch is valuable, consider asking a professional.